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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.